'72-'77 Jeep I-6 Coil-In-Cap HEI Distributor Switch

THIS PAGE IS FOR...

AMC/Jeep Inline 6 Cylinder Engines, 232 & 258 from '71 to '77,





Coil-In-Cap,
Lots of problems keeping your spark energy/high voltage from doing bad things with the coil in the cap,
And you are limited to the factory size coil, which isn't anywhere near the better of the three coil choices.

Coil in cap can be converted to a remote coil by using the cap and coil of your choice, plus adding a coil wire...
Just in case you have one now and want to get the coil out of the cap!

WHAT I ORDER TO START WITH,
COIL IN CAP DISTRIBUTOR, '78 CHEVY BLAZER WITH I-6 ENGINE.






You Will Need To Change The Gear To An AMC V-8 Gear,
This is NOT a misprint, you will use the AMC V-8 Distributor Gear on the GM HEI I-6 Distributor shaft.
$20 to $50 Depending on where you get them.






BRASS TERMINAL CAPS! Accept no substitutes!
Try to find a color of cap other than 'Black',
Black caps are often bad news, the pigment used to make the plastic black also causes problems with the spark energy getting to the plugs correctly.



Many caps don't have the Rotor with them when you get them,
If yours doesn't, this is what they look like when you order them separate.






When you build from 'Scratch', you will need one of these 'Coil Covers'...
Around $10 Retail.






Remember! You are limited on the size of the coil you can use by the coil hole in the cap you use!
This coil comes with a ground strap for the coil frame, metal strip on right
Check the coil in the cap and length of screws befor you buy!



This is what the GROUND STRAP looks like by it's self.
This is a 3 angle view fo the Ground Strap.






You will need a 'Resistor' or 'Center Button' Electrode for the coil to cap connection.
These drop in the cap from the top, the coil sits on them...








You will need a tube of 'Heat Transfer Paste' from Radio Shack or a computer store.
Radio Shack p/n 276-1372, about $3.



DO NOTuse the Clear 'Dielectric Grease' supplied with most modules, it simply does NOT work well enough for this purpose.



ASSEMBLY...

1. DIELECTRIC GREASE,
Also called 'Tune Up Grease' is a MUST for this assembly!
Don't even think about trying to assemble the cap without a coat of dielectric grease on BOTH sides of the gasket/insulator/'rubber' washer between coil and cap!

Drop the 'Center Button' in the cap from the top,
Slather up both sides of the insulation washer and center it on the spring sticking up inside the coil pocket in the cap,

Then put the coil in on top making sure little round bare metal spot centers over the spring on the center button!

2. You make sure your COIL SCREWS are not too long for the cap/coil you have!
There are two different thicknesses of coil mounting frames,
And if you use the LONG screws on the THIN coil frame, you WILL PUNCH THROUGH THE CAP before you get the coil tight!

A TON of the 'HEI' complaints I see from the "$100 E-bay" HEI distributors are the long screws on the early caps.
They punch through, the spark energy grounds to the screws and you get a missing engine like crazy!
If your engine shakes when it idles, and you have a "$100 Internet" distributor, you might check for this particular issue.

3. GET YOUR GROUND STRAP IN THE 'RIGHT' PLACE!
You get all kinds of strange things going on if you don't ground the coil frame and coil correctly!
Look at the coil cover, it will be marked "GND" or (-), and the slot in the cap connector below is where the flat tail of the ground strap goes.
The 'Hook' end goes to a coil screw.

The 'Black' wire from the coil with an 'Eye' end goes under a screw also.
For best performance, it should go under the same screw as the ground strap.

4. Get the 'Red' wire in the 'BAT' or (+) slot on the cap.
The coil cover will be marked to show you were it goes.

5. GET THE 'YELLOW WIRE' in the correct slot on the cap connector
AGAIN, once you do the 'Ground' and the 'BAT' there will only be one more slot for a terminal on the cap connector, so it shouldn't be hard to figure where that 'Yellow' wire goes!

6. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE COIL COVER ON CORRECTLY!
Without a coil cover, the connector tabs won't stay in place, and you will collect water/crud around the coil.

7. TAKE THE MODULE OUT OF THE DISTRIBUTOR BASE,
Use some actual Heat Transfer Paste under that module, then re-install.
Most replacement distributors come with a module, but the re-builder uses dielectric grease instead of actual heat transfer paste.
A tube of heat transfer paste is about $3 at Radio Shack or any computer store.



8. CHANGE THE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR!
GM GEARS WILL NOT WORK WITH YOUR AMC I-6 ENGINE!
An AMC V-8 Gear will work on this distributor, so you punch out the roll pin holding the gear on,
Change gears, and put the roll pin back in.
You are looking for about 1/8" of gap between housing/shims and top of gear, gear/shaft should NOT be tight against the housing.